Sep/Oct 22

SIXTY YEARS ON
Welcome to another issue of Climber with a great mix of articles to peruse. The cover feature is about the wealth of easier grade sport climbing based around the town of Leonidio on the Greek Peloponnese Peninsula. We did run an article on this area three years ago but that focused mainly on the harder climbing in the F7b to F8b region. On my first visit post-pandemic, I was sceptical about how much and how good the easier graded routes would be, though those fears were soon banished, the place is fantastic. With such a diverse breadth of climbing styles: slabs, tufas, steep walls and even overhangs with the most amazing holds will give any visitor a trip that will live long in the memory.

Closer to home, and a counter to sport climbing, we have a trio of Northumberland locals writing about their favourite trad routes from Severe through to E2 and lots of gems spread right across ‘The Coonty’. I’ve climbed quite a few of these and can concur with their choices, again a stunning place to visit. Staying in northern England, over on the west, Katie Mackay writes on how she recently became the fi rst woman to complete the formidable Lake District Classic Rock Round in under 24 hours. This is a super achievement taking in 34 miles of travel on foot, 15 routes up to VS and around 4,300m of ascent. I’ve been looking at doing this round based on Ken Wilson’s iconic Classic Rock book and thought four days would be a good challenge let alone a day.
 

Still in the Lakes, the Easy Climbs feature is located at Glaciated Slab at the head of Borrowdale, a lovely place to while away an afternoon and get a fair few routes under your belt. Back into Europe, I’ve always been in awe of ground-breaking Alpine routes and, in the main, ascents of iconic faces from back in the day when gear was basic and rudimentary and only the top climbers would dare to try. These include the Eiger and the valiant efforts that took place to conquer its north wall.