Climber - May / Jun 23

CLIMBER  |  MAY/JUN23  

SPRINGTIME
Sitting down to write this, spring is here and the clocks have just
changed, opening up the chance to climb later in the day. Spring is,
without doubt, my favourite time of the year when flora and fauna
start to burst with life and new energy and greenery becomes abundant.
It’s apt then that after a few months of recovery from hip surgery (a
new hip to join my other ‘new’ hip) I took my fi rst steps back climbing,
managing a couple of hours at the local indoor wall, albeit at modest
grades (small steps and patience – although my wife will question the
patience bit) and the start of the spring-like recovery where I too hope
to burst into life with new energy and vigour.
Mentioning grades, as seen on this issue’s cover, Climber columnist James Pearson has just climbed what he believes is his hardest trad route yet. He’s chosen not to grade it, thus leaving it up to future suitors to decide on that.
You may ask why? Well, he’s been stung before with grades. When he made the first ascent of The Walk of Life in 2008, he thought it was the hardest thing he had climbed and subsequently over-graded it. The tirade of vitriolic persecution that followed on online forums was uncalled for and very unpleasant. Now people see what an incredible route it is, regardless of grade, and applaud a fine addition to the UK’s list of world-class trad routes. Many years on, James now has plenty of hard climbing experience on an array of rock types around the world, so if James feels it’s the hardest trad route he’s climbed at this time and offers no grade, then good for him. It looks amazing.
So on to this issue and a small sample of what’s in store – the headline
feature is a tour around the limestone crags that throng the north Wales coastline.
Until the next time, be safe and enjoy the spring.