Nov/Dec 21

LONGEVITY
In the news in this issue is Neil Gresham’s amazing new route, Lexicon. This eye-catching route, not just in terms of the climbing and position on the upper reaches of a Lake District mountain but the grade that goes with it, is an amazing effort from Neil and one that comes from dedication, ability, determination and experience. Attributes that Neil possesses in droves – when he sets his mind to something he goes all out to achieve it. The same can be said about Steve McClure who made a repeat of the route and, before success, took the full 70+ft ride down the wall from the fi nishing moves. Luckily for Steve he got away with it and was able to dust himself down to return a few days later to make a successful lead. What I fi nd encouraging and remarkable is that both are 50 years old and are still at the top of the game. An age when many would be sitting back and enjoying easier classics, not pushing the trad envelope even further.

Another hard trad stalwart still pushing the boundaries is Dave MacLeod, albeit he’s a whipper snapper at only 43 years old. Again putting in the time and dedication to climb a new hard and bold E9 on the fl anks of Ben Nevis. He also been down for a peak at Lexicon from his beloved Scotland. The point I’m making with these three climbers is one of longevity and the ability and mental mindset to keep this kind of climbing going for many years, for example, 25 years ago Neil made the third ascent of famous ‘death route’ The Indian Face (E9) – I fi nd it inspiring and hats off to all three of them. I wonder if today’s ‘young guns’ will be doing bold routes at high levels at the age of 50?
Dave