Jan/Feb 21

CLOUD CLIMBING
The main feature in this magazine is about Hen Cloud in Staffordshire. An imposing gritstone crag that for some unknown reason is often shunned by climbers visiting the area. I can’t understand that but maybe it is the imposing position, or that there’s a bit of a reputation for tough lines? Whilst the latter is true of certain routes, trust me, there’s plenty of less menacing lines to do with classics all over the crag. In fact, I would go on to say that this is one of the fi nest gritstone crags periodand that’s coming from someone who grew up on the delights of eastern grit crags. Hopefully the article tempts you to pay a visit? I love a classic route (and a trip to North Wales) and Tony Howard highlights three of these. I must confess that I’ve only done one of them – Creagh Dhu Wall at Tremadog – but the other two are certainly on the list now. The easy climbs article heads to one of my most treasured venues, Burbage North, in the Peak District. Being a born and bred Sheffi elder, I spent many an evening there after work and have fond memories. It’s far too far for an evening from my current Midlands home but the odd day trip is a must.
Just before Wales headed into a lockdown, and inspired by a new guidebook, I had planned a visit to the Gilwern Hills to try out some well-bolted sport routes and climb in this area for the fi rst time, having driven past it on many occasions. Having read Guy Percival’s article I can’t wait. Heading across to France and Climber regular, Keith Sharples, nipped over to a venue few have heard of let alone climbed on, yet has a plethora of superb bolted climbs, so welcome to Saint-Cézaire – the cat is out of the bag